Astoria in the Great Hall: French-American Bistro

 

Nestled inside the Great Hall on Toronto's Queen West, Astoria opened last summer as a French-American bistro and cocktail bar from the owners and chef from 'Bar Poet'. A heritage venue and iconic landmark since 1889, the inspiration for the restaurant’s soul-warming cuisine came from a desire to echo the building’s timeless aesthetic. "The place feels nostalgic, and we wanted the food to match that," says Montes de Oca, Manager of Astoria. Head chef Shivam Munjal heads the kitchen serving a classic French bistro-inspired menu featuring Escargot, Oysters, French Onion Soup, Moules et Frites, Duck Confit and Steak-Frites with classic desserts such as Crème Brûlée and Mousse au Chocolat. The 'cocktail menu' is equally enticing with classic libations including a French 75, Old Fashioned, Paper Plane and Negroni, plus a section featuring just 'Bubbles'. 

Arriving for dinner on a chilly Saturday night, Astoria was bustling. The beautiful rustic bistro, exuding a sense of opulence of a time that once was — with exposed brick and gilded mirrors — we were nestled in one of their sumptuous leather banquettes surrounded by the warm hue of the vintage bar, and animated chatter of Saturday night's crowd. Our small party began the evening sampling some of Astoria's classic cocktails, then indulged in their signature brioche pull-apart bread served with Maldon salt and house-cultured butter stamped with an “A” for Astoria. Following with a platter of East Coast oysters and delicious Baby Gem Caesar Salad with candied guanciale, white anchovies and garlic croutons, we chose a lovely Pinot Noir from Astoria's short but concise wine list of easy-drinking French bottles that play well with the menu’s hearty bistro fare. It was delicious with the Steak-Frites and Mushroom Agnolotti. The dessert menu, also short but delightfully sweet, was too inviting not to yield to the temptation of the Mousse au Chocolat and silky smooth Crème Brûlée. Friendly and attentive, our server made our evening at Astoria a warm and welcoming experience.  

 

The beautifully hand drawn menu doubles as a placemat 

Casual dishcloth inspired napkins with casual bistro-style china

The French-inspired bistro décor of Astoria

The small menu of classic cocktails features a 'Paper Plane', made with bourbon, 

Aperol, Amaro Nonino, and fresh lemon juice

Another Astoria cocktail is the 'Vesper Martini' which was invented by author Ian Fleming 

for his iconic British secret agent, James Bond 007

Astoria's Warm and Squishy Brioche Bread & Butter with Maldon Salt

Chef Munjal's Baby Gem Caesar Salad crowned with candied guanciale, white anchovies 

and garlic croutons and served wrapped in muslin for easy seedless squeezing

gets a boost of umami from his anchovy-laden dressing  

These Bijou oysters from New Brunswick come with a Merlot mignonette, fresh horseradish, 

a mini bottle of Tabasco and lemon wedge

A first from Ottawa born financier-turned-winemaker Frédéric Brouca, this Pinot Noir 

is organically grown from a small vineyard in St. Chinian in Languedoc-Roussillon

Medium bodied with ripe tannins, the wine was a highlight on Astoria's short wine list

Grilled Asparagus

Mushroom Agnolotti with Porcini stuffed ravioli in a white wine cream sauce consisting of oyster, beech, and porcini mushrooms, and topped with a generous amount of pecorino

Perfectly grilled USDA Prime flank Steak-Frites with a quenelle of café de Paris butter 

served with sautéed spinach, house-made fries and Maldon salt

Astoria's special of the day, Grilled Salmon with Beurre Blanc sauce and sautéed new potatoes

topped with blistered Shishito peppers

Creamy Chocolate Mousse with a generous swirl of whipped cream 

then dusted with toasted pistachios and cocoa powder

Crème Brûlée - a French classic with vanilla bean and caramelized sugar

www.astoriagreathall.com/menu

Scaramouche: A Culinary Institution

 

With stunning views of the city skyline, Scaramouche is a culinary institution consistently ranked as one of the city's best since it opened in 1980. Long celebrated by customers and critics alike for its unwavering commitment to excellence and ensuring each dining experience is a truly memorable one, Chef-owner Keith Froggett’s modern French cuisine is consistently well-executed and crafted with the finest seasonal local ingredients. The presentation is beautiful, the food is sophisticated and always absolutely delicious. 

Arriving for a special birthday dinner, we launched the evening with a glass of champagne and indulged in the restaurant's celebrated Blackbird Baking Company sourdough served with chef Froggett's house made hummus. With an enviable wine list from which to choose, we decided on one of our favourites - a Brunello di Montalcino - which paired beautifully with our entrées, an Ontario Saddle of Beef rolled with lemon zest and fennel pollen, and a delicious Filet Mignon served with whipped potatoes, green beans, and mixed mushrooms. Beginning with a light and tangy Romaine Hearts with caesar dressing, chopped egg, Parmesan and toasted bread crumbs, and a decadent Terrine of Foie Gras with Riesling jelly, toasted hazelnuts, triple crunch mustard, sour cherry reduction and pickled grapes and served with freshly flakey sea salt brioche, the entire dinner was absolutely sensational and made our evening a beautiful celebration.

 

Scaramouche's interior is elegant and intimate 

Beginning our dinner with a glass of NV Tarlant ‘Brut Reserve’ Champagne

Stunning views over the city

Scaramouche Dinner menu

Hummus

Warm freshly baked bread accompanies the hummus

A special wine for a special evening

A delicious 2018 Brunello di Montalcino

Romaine Hearts with Caesar dressing, chopped egg, Parmesan and toasted bread crumbs

Terrine of Foie Gras served with Riesling jelly, toasted hazelnuts, Triple crunch mustard, 

sour cherry reduction and pickled grapes and freshly baked sea salt brioche

Ontario Saddle of Lamb, rolled with lemon zest and fennel pollen, 

served with roasted eggplant purée, charred broccolini, pickled small carrots, preserved lemon 

and caramelized pearl onions with natural jus and pistachio dukka

Filet Mignon, cooked medium rare served with whipped potatoes, 

green beans and mixed mushrooms with a red wine jus

Scaramouche dessert menu

Coffee Semifreddo Dacquoise with hazelnut praline, brandy caramel sauce and chocolate shards

Scaramouche's famous Coconut Cream Pie with coconut custard, chantilly cream, 

white chocolate shavings and dark chocolate sauce served for my husbands birthday

A perfectly made Macchiato

www.scaramoucherestaurant.com

Carpaccio With Raw Asparagus, Blood Orange, Fennel, & Hazelnut Oil

Serves 4

Recipe courtesy of Chef Keith Froggett

12 oz very fresh, centre cut beef filet

1/3 cup hazelnut oil

1 small firm fennel bulb

Maldon salt and freshly ground pepper

1 small head frisee separated into small pieces

8 large asparagus tips, about 4 inches long, cut into thin long slices

2 Italian blood oranges, segmented

1/2 cup toasted, coarsely crushed hazelnuts

2 tbsp lemon juice

4 oz Parmesan cheese

Trim filet of any surface discolouration, wrap and chill well for 1 hour. Cut filet into 1/4 inch-thick slices and brush lightly with hazelnut oil. Place 2 slices of filet between two sheets of plastic wrap. Working from the centre gently pound the filet evenly using a flat mallet or back of a pot, to a thickness of about 1/8 inch. Transfer to an individual serving plate, cover tightly with fresh plastic pushing it against the meat to remove air. Refrigerate. Repeat with remaining slices. This can be done up to 5 hours in advance of serving.

Cut fennel into quarters, trim the core if necessary but leave enough to keep the layers together. Shave into thin slices with a mandoline, preferably, and drop into iced water to crisp, for no more than 5 minutes. Remove plates from the refrigerator. Remove plastic and season the filet with salt and pepper. Add a few frisee leaves, fennel shavings, asparagus slices and orange segments to each plate, taking care not to overwhelm the beef.

Sprinkle with some of the hazelnuts, a little more salt, a drizzle of hazelnut oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. Shave the cheese over and serve immediately.

Turkey, Leek & Mushroom Pot Pie with Puff Pastry

 

A delicious pot pie made with either leftover turkey or roast chicken topped with a golden crown of flaky, herb-scented puff pastry, is classic comfort food at it's finest. The filling can be prepared in advance with any vegetables you have on hand, but I like to use leeks, potatoes, carrots, celery and mushrooms which are sautéed in butter until tender. A thick creamy sauce is what brings the whole thing together, so it's important to taste for seasoning as you go along, adjusting the flavour to suit your palate. A cup of wine and a little marsala adds extra depth of flavour, along with a handful of frozen peas and any leftover Thanksgiving dressing that hasn't been gobbled up. Topped with puff pastry rolled with fresh thyme and brushed with a little egg yolk, this warm and comforting Turkey, Leek & Mushroom Pot Pie is a scrumptious finale to Thanksgiving's prized leftovers.

Turkey, Leek & Mushroom Pot Pie with Puff Pastry

Serves 6-8

3 tbsp butter, divided

3 carrots, washed and finely chopped 

2 stalks celery, washed and finely chopped 

1 leek, trimmed, washed and sliced in 1/4-inch pieces

8 new potatoes, cleaned and quartered with skin on

2 cup frozen peas

5 tbsp fresh thyme, divided

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

4 cups cooked turkey, shredded into bite-size pieces

8 oz cremini or button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

1/2 cup white wine

2 tbsp Marsala  

2 1/2 cups whole milk or light cream, divided

1/4 cup flour

2 sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed

1 large egg, lightly beaten with 2 tbsp milk

Preheat oven to 375°F. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large frying pan set on medium heat and sauté the carrots, celery, leek, potatoes and 3 tablespoon of fresh thyme, until the vegetables are just tender, about 8-10 minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Add the turkey, mushrooms and white wine and continue cooking until the liquid cooks off, then transfer the mixture to a bowl.

Return the pan to medium heat and melt the remaining tablespoon of butter, then add 1 cup of milk and sprinkle with the flour; whisk until no lumps remain, then add the remaining milk. Cook for 1 minute to thicken the sauce, then remove from the heat. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables, then stir in the peas and pour the mixture into a 2-quart casserole dish.

Dust a clean surface with some flour and roll out both sheets of puff pastry one at a time, dusting with more flour as needed. They should end up a bit larger than the size of the casserole. Sprinkle one sheet with the remaining chopped thyme, then place the other sheet of the pastry overtop and roll once more to 'sandwich' in the minced herbs. To finish, lay the layered puff pastry over the casserole and then tuck the edges in or roll them over, as you wish. Using a sharp paring knife gently score the top of the pastry to make a decorative cross-hatch pattern, then brush with a beaten egg. Bake uncovered on a parchment lined baking sheet for 60-70 minutes, until the pastry puffs up and is golden brown. 

Banana Layer Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting

 

Rich, moist and delicious, this double layer Banana Cake with fluffy Cream Cheese Frosting is one of my favourite desserts, a beautiful culinary creation that envelops luscious layers of cake with an indulgent creamy frosting. A sweet symbol of celebration, you don't need a special occasion to make this simply divine dessert. Layered with cream cheese frosting and slices of fresh banana, this recipe is what happens when banana bread goes to the dark side. It's also an excellent way to use up over ripe bananas — the browner they are, the better the cake. The same recipe can be used to make banana bread and muffins, but the delicate cream cheese frosting and layers of fresh sliced bananas make this dessert simply irresistible.

Banana Layer Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting

Makes 1 split-layer cake

1/2 cup butter, at room temperature, plus more for pan

1 cup granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1 1/2 cups unbleached flour

1 tsp baking soda

1 tsp salt

1 cup mashed very ripe bananas

1 whole banana, cut into thin slices

5 tbsp buttermilk

1 tsp vanilla

1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

Cream Cheese Frosting: 

16 oz cream cheese

6 cups icing sugar

1 tsp vanilla

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9" round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment, then set aside. Using an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, and beat to incorporate.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, and salt. Add to the butter mixture, and mix until just combined. Add the ripe bananas, buttermilk, and vanilla, and mix to combine. Stir in the chopped nuts, then pour into the parchment lined cake pan.

Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 35-45 minutes. Let rest in pan for 5 minutes, then turn out onto a rack to cool. Using a long knife, slice the cake in half though the middle, making 2 layers. Remove one half and set aside.

To make the frosting, beat the cream cheese until smooth, then add the sugar and vanilla, and mix until light and fluffy. To assemble the cake, place one layer of cake on a serving platter and spread generously with cream cheese frosting. Arrange one layer of fresh banana slices over top, then cover with the second cake layer, and frost the top and sides of the cake. Garnish the top with chopped nuts, then slice and serve.

Boeuf Bourguignon: A French Culinary Classic

 

Boeuf Bourguignon is perhaps Burgundy’s most iconic dish. A rich beef stew made famous in America by Julia Child, is prepared from beef slowly simmered in a hearty red wine, often a Burgundy, and beef stock typically flavoured with carrots, onions, garlic, and bouquet garni, and garnished with pearl onions, mushrooms, and bacon lardons. As with all beef stews, this one is best made a day or two ahead. The co-authors of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Simone Beck, Louisette Bertholle and Julia Child, have described the dish as "certainly one of the most delicious beef dishes concocted by man".

Julia Child preparing to make her Boeuf Bourguignon

'Mastering the Art of French Cooking' by Simone Beck, Louisette Bertholle and Julia Child

Boeuf Bourguignon
Serves 6

Recipe courtesy of Julia Child, The Art of French Cooking

6 slices bacon, cut into lardons

3 1/2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

3 lb stewing beef, cut into 2-inch chunks

1 large carrot, sliced

1 large white onion, sliced

1 pinch coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tbsp all-purpose flour

3 cups red wine

2 1/2 to 3 1/2 cups beef stock

1 tbsp tomato paste

2 cloves smashed garlic

1/2 tsp thyme

1 crumbled bay leaf

18 - 24 small pearl onions

3 1/2 tbsp butter

1 herb bouquet (4 sprigs parsley, 2 sprigs thyme, 1 bay leaf)

1 lb fresh white mushrooms, quartered

Remove the rind from the bacon and cut into lardons (1/4 inch thick and 1 1/2 inches long). Simmer rind and bacon for 10 minutes in 1 1/2 quarts of water. Drain and dry. Preheat oven to 450°F.

Sauté the bacon in the oil over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon. Set casserole aside. Reheat until fat is almost smoking before you sauté the beef. Dry the stewing beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Sauté it, a few pieces at a time, in the hot oil and bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the bacon.

In the same fat, brown the sliced vegetables. Pour out the sautéing fat.

Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with the salt and pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the meat lightly with the flour. Set casserole uncovered in the middle position of the preheated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat and return to the oven for 4 minutes more. This browns the flour and covers the meat with a light crust. Remove casserole, and turn the oven down to 325°F.

Stir in the wine and enough stock or bouillon so that the meat is barely covered. Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs, and bacon rind. Bring to simmer on top of the stove. Then cover the casserole and set in the lower third of the preheated oven. Regulate heat, so liquid simmers very slowly for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.

While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms. Set them aside until needed.

When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms over the meat.

Skim fat off the sauce. Simmer sauce for a minute or two, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2 1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons of stock or canned bouillon. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. The recipe may be completed in advance to this point.

For immediate serving: Cover the casserole and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in its casserole, or arrange the stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles, or rice, and decorated with parsley.

For later serving: When cold, cover and refrigerate. About 15 to 20 minutes before serving, bring to the simmer, cover, and simmer very slowly for 10 minutes, occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce.

Brix & Mortar: Modern Canadian Cuisine in Vancouver

Set in a 1912 heritage brick building in the Yaletown neighbourhood of Vancouver, Brix & Mortar is locally owned and operated by David Hannay and Patrick Mercer who started their careers as waiters with big dreams. In those years, "we sort of waxed poetic about the possibility of opening our own restaurant," Hannay says. In 1999, their dream became a reality when they visited a space for sale in a 1912 heritage brick building. "We were enthralled by the physical location of the space," Hannay says of Yaletown.

Today Brix & Mortar is a sophisticated and inviting space featuring a spectacular glass covered courtyard with cobblestones, trailing vines and aglow at night with white lights, in addition to an open-air outdoor terrace overlooking Hamilton Street that feels like a posh ballroom with stunning chandeliers and luxurious seating. Inside, the main dining room features whitewashed brick walls, wood floors and beams, crystal chandeliers and handsome butcher block tables. 

Executive Chef Chris Bisaro presents modern Canadian cuisine that showcases the flavours of the Pacific Northwest, alongside fine wine and creative cocktails. Everything on the seasonal menu is made from scratch, including appetizers like Beef Tartare, Chicken Liver Mousse and Steamed Mussels, and entrées such as Cornmeal Crusted Local Lingcod, Wild Sockeye Salmon with Nova Scotia Lobster and Potato Hash, and Canadian Prime Flatiron Steak with a truffle shoyu black garlic demi-glace, which are all made with locally sourced produce from British Columbia and Alberta. 

I was introduced to this wonderful restaurant over 15 years ago by my cousin and her best friend when we dined in the gorgeous outdoor courtyard. Visiting Vancouver last summer, we went back to Brix & Mortar with hopes of dining in the courtyard again, but it was reserved for a wedding, which is often the case as the space is simply magical. As a result, we sat in the main dining area overlooking the upbeat craft bar. Beginning with a glass of sparkling wine from the Okanagen Falls, that was recommended by our server, we shared Burrata with grilled sourdough bread, followed by Local Halibut with Wild Prawn Crust and Parmesan-Reggiano Grilled Corn Grits, and Grilled 'Lumina' Lamb Neck with Braised Lamb and Potato Gnocchi. Finishing with a perfect Macchiato, my heart smiled as we wandered through Yaletown on a perfect summer evening.

Brix & Mortar menu

The craft bar at Brix & Mortar

'Sound of Music' cocktail with St Remy, sherry, fresh lemon, Orgeat and Vegan foamer

Blue Mountain Vineyards Reserve 'RD' Sparkling Wine 2013 from Okanagan Falls, BC

Burrata alla Panna: Grilled sourdough bread, fresh arugula, smoked salt, 

Moroccan olive oil and oven dried tomato

La Stella ‘Lastellina’ Rosé 202 from Osoyoos, BC

Local Prawn Crusted Halibut with Parmesan Reggiano grilled corn grits, 

and orange & honey glazed baby carrots

Catena Malbec ‘High Mountain Vines’ 2019 from Mendoza, Argentina

Grilled 'Lumina' Lamb Neck: curry braised lamb & potato gnocchi, green peas & Grana Padano

Macchiato

The courtyard when I dined with my cousin 15-years ago

www.brixandmortar.ca

Brix and Mortar Mussels

Serves 2

Recipe courtesy of chef Chris Bistro

6 oz bacon
1 lb mussels
2 tbsp grapeseed oil
4 tbsp butter, divided
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 large shallot, minced
1 tsp crushed chilies
1/2 cup white wine
1 cup chicken stock
1 tbsp Italian parsley, coarse chop, no stems
1 tsp lemon juice
Salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 350°F. Cook the bacon until crispy. Allow to cool, then chop into large chunks. While the bacon is cooking, place the mussels in a large bowl and clean under running cold water removing beards and barnacles. Drain the mussels well and set aside.

Place a large saucepan or large frying pan on stovetop at medium-high heat, pour the oil and 2 tbsp of butter into the pan along with chilies, garlic and shallots. Once the butter and garlic begin to brown toss the mussels in the pan, until they begin to open. Add the white wine, turn up the heat to high and reduce the liquid by about half. Add the chicken stock and reduce by half again. Then add the bacon, parsley, lemon juice and remaining butter and toss until the butter is completely melted making the broth smooth on the tongue. Taste the broth and if it needs salt or pepper to your desired taste then feel free to add. Serve immediately in a warm bowl with sliced baguette.