Casa Boronia Bistecca alla Fiorentina & Bocce

Nearly every Tuscan home cook is an expert at Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a classic Florentine steak that calls for only a few ingredients. The steak is traditionally from Chianina cattle — an ancient Tuscan breed known for its prized and tasty meat — seasoned with local spices, and grilled over red-hot coals or wood fire. It’s ideally served very rare or 'al sangue', as it's a crime to overcook such a high-quality cut of meat. Purchased from a local Macelleria and cut to our desired thickness, we seasoned the bistecca with salt, pepper and fresh rosemary, and set it aside to relax as we prepared the wood fire in the outdoor pizza oven. Meanwhile we poured ourselves a glass of prosecco, nibbled on some pecorino and played our traditional twilight match of bocce in the front garden, as we waited for the wood fire to reach the perfect heat. Set on a standing grill and placed over the red hot embers, the Bistecca alla Fiorentina is grilled over high heat until the steak is nicely seared and the meat is still quite rare, then garnished with local Umbrian olive oil. Sliced off the bone and served with lovely roast potatoes and a luscious full bodied Umbrian Rosso di Montefalco by Cantine Giorgio Lungarotti, the bistecca was nothing short of exceptional, enjoyed outdoors under the stars on a beautiful summer evening.

Each evening at cocktail hour we enjoyed a game of bocce in the garden, keeping score each night during our month at our villa in Umbria

The upper dining area overlooking the Umbrian hills and bocce garden

A few lumps of Pecorino and a glass of Prosecco sustained us during our nightly bocce tournament

Roses in bloom 

The fire was roaring in the pizza oven and ready for the Steak Fiorentina to be grilled over red hot embers on a low grill rack

Cooked for 3-5 minutes per side then set bone-side up for another minute,

as Fiorentina-style steak is always served al sangue - very rare

Grilled to juicy perfection

Slicing the steak and prized tenderloin off the bone

Perfectly pink, thick and juicy

Roasted Umbrian potatoes with fresh rosemary from the garden 

A luscious full bodied Umbrian Rosso di Montefalco by Lungarotti

Dining outdoors on a beautiful summer evening

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

Serves 2

1 well-aged bone-in Bistecca alla Fiorentina, cut between 2-3-inches thick

1 bunch fresh rosemary

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 tsp Maldon salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Massage about half a tablespoon or more of coarse salt to the top of the steak. Prepare a charcoal or wood fire to cook the steak. When the charcoal or wood embers are red-hot, place the steak onto a flat roasting rack with bone portion towards the rear of the grill and cook for about 3-5 minutes. Turn the steak over and cook second side for another 3-5 minutes. To finish, set the steak up on the bone side and cook for another minute. Meat should be seared and crisp on the exterior and red, almost raw at the very centre by the bone. 

When the steak is done, remove it from the grill and allow it to stand for 5 minutes, so that the juices are retained when the meat is sliced. Carve off the fillet and steak before slicing into portions. To serve, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and garnish with additional salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

Oven Roasted Orange Chicken with Rosemary

One of the true pleasures of renting a villa in Italy, are the golden opportunities to shop in local markets and being able to feast on the culinary rewards of cooking in the comfort of a well-equipped Italian kitchen. Inspired by the healthy maize fed yellow chickens that we saw throughout Umbria, we purchased a handsome 'pollo giallo' that had already been cut up into smaller pieces, and marinated it with some fresh Sicilian oranges, a splash of Umbrian Grechetto, and handful of fresh rosemary from the garden. Oven roasted for about 40 minutes until golden brown and cooked through, our 'yellow bird' was magnificently moist and full of flavour. Raising our glasses, we toasted yet another glorious day in paradise.



Oven Roasted Orange Chicken with Rosemary
Serves 2

1/8 cup olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tbsp sugar
2 oranges, one juiced and one sliced
1/4 cup white wine
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 small chicken, cut into serving pieces, pat dry
1 tablespoon fresh chopped rosemary


Preheat oven to 400°F. In a small bowl whisk together olive oil, garlic, sugar, orange juice, white wine, salt and pepper. Place the chicken in a rimmed baking dish. Place the pieces of chicken skin side up and spread out evenly in the pan. Pour the olive oil mixture over chicken, turning the pieces to coat all sides. Arrange the sliced orange around and under the chicken. Sprinkle all over generously with rosemary, salt and pepper. Bake uncovered for about 30-40 minutes or until the chicken is cooked and juices run clear. Remove the chicken to a serving platter and garnish with additional chopped rosemary.

Yasu: The Ultimate Japanese Omakase in Toronto

Tucked in a narrow white room on Harbord Street, Osaka-raised chef-owner Yasuhisa Ouchi delivers glistening sushi, one piece at a time, to 10 guests seated at his marble-topped bar, Yasu. The city's first sushi-only omakase restaurant, Yasuhisa's edict is simple — "In a global world where borders are becoming seamless, Toronto can now have access to the freshest seafood like what we have in Japan. Yasu took this opportunity to return to the roots of sushi, in which simplicity was the key ingredient in bringing out the taste of the sea. He uses classical methods to draw out the umami of seafood, with fish that is freshly sliced and placed atop warm, loose rice then brushed with a touch of nikiri soy for a perfectly balanced bite. In short, Yasu is all about capturing the essence of sushi. Seasonal ingredients are prepared at the sushi bar and served immediately for maximum flavour and freshness, for a true omakase sushi experience, made to order right in front of you and served a single bite at a time. 

My favourite omakase in Toronto, I am drawn to Yasu like a moth to a sushi flame, and have to satisfy my raw fish cravings every few months. The menu is a seasonally changing selection of 18 impeccably fresh pieces of edomae sushi for $135 per person, which can include Mackerel from Norway, Lobster from Nova Scotia, Uni from Vancouver and Boston, Snow Crab from Greenland and Shirako from Hokkaido. The trio of akami, chūtoro, and ōtoro Bluefin Tuna from Mexico melts in your mouth and the house smoked Bonito from Hokkaido is sublime. The chef's choice of sake perfectly paired with each evenings menu, served in glasses cradled in a traditional wooden masu box, is a delightful trip through the various styles of Japanese rice wine and well worth the price. For sushi enthusiasts, Yasu is an experience unlike like any other. Place yourself in the chef's hands, and you'll leave in a blissful state of sushi euphoria every time.

Hay Smoked Bonito from Japan

Shirako (cod milt) from Hokkaido, is in season now and considered a Japanese delicacy

but is an acquired taste given that it's the sperm sac of fish

Striped Jack from Shikoku Prefecture, Japan

Composing the uni sushi

Uni from Boston

Uni from British Columbia

Japanese Fluke with grilled fluke fin

Monkfish Liver with grated daikon and shiso leaf from Japan

Sea Scallop garnished with sea salt and lemon juice from Japan

Nova Scotia Lobster with grated lime and ponzu

Rich and flavourful homemade Stiped Jack fish broth made with hatchō miso,

known as the "emperor's miso" and garnished with green onion

Akami or lean red meat tuna

Chūtoro is medium fatty tuna found near the skin on the back and belly

Otoro is the prized pink fatty tuna

Snow Crab and Snow Crab Liver from Greenland

Black Cod from Vancouver Island

Composing the fatty tuna and inure rice bowls

Ikura with fatty tuna from Mexico served over rice and garnished with sliced scallions 

Norwegian Mackerel topped with sliced daikon

Japanese yellowtail

Unagi from Japan

Sous chef slicing Tamago

Tamago is a classic Japanese sweet egg and white fish custard

Homemade Black Sesame Iced Cream

www.yasu-sushibar.com/toronto.html

Sukhothai on Wellington: A Taste of Thai in Toronto

Since arriving from Pai, Thailand, in 2006, chef Nuit Regular and her restaurateur husband, Jeff, have made a huge impact on the food scene in Toronto. Celebrated for bringing the distinct flavour of Northern Thai cuisine and hospitality to the city with their restaurants Sukhothai, Pai Northern Thai Kitchen and most recently Kiin, which celebrates Royal Thai cuisine, the popularity of their restaurants all began with the opening of the humble Curry Shack in the small town of Pai, in Northern Thailand. Having learned to cook in her mother’s kitchen, Chef Nuit left her career as a nurse in Thailand to share her passion and life experiences through family recipes, street market dishes, and creative collaborations. With a focus on classic Northern Thai cooking, Sukhothai's Green Curry with bamboo shoots, kaffir lime leaves, basil leaves, green peppers and coconut milk served with steamed Jasmine sticky rice, is so close to the sensational curries we enjoyed in Bangkok, the flavours take us right back to Thailand. Sukhothai's menu includes sensational crispy shrimp rolls, traditional soups, rice, curries and noodles dishes, which are served with varying degrees of spiciness: mild, hot, spicy hot and Thai hot — just be sure to order a tall frosty Singha beer which pairs well with the hot curries and keeps you cool, as you experience the most deliciously authentic Thai cuisine in the city.

Crispy Shrimp Rolls

Gaeng Panang Chicken Curry with Thai basil

Pad Kee Mao with shrimp, red and green peppers, Thai basil, mushroom and egg

Chef Nuit Regular

www.sukhothaifood.ca

Northern-Style Green Curry With Steamed Sticky Rice

Serves 4-6

Recipe courtesy of chef Nuit Regular

2 1/2 cups coconut milk

2 tbsp vegetable oil

3 tbsp green curry paste

1 cup bamboo shoot tips, drained and cut into matchsticks

2 kaffir lime leaves

1/2 lb boneless beef short rib, thinly sliced

3 red chilis, seeds removed, julienned (use less for less heat)

1/2 cup Thai basil leaves

1 tsp sugar, preferable cane

1 tsp fish sauce

Steamed Sticky Rice:

3 cups glutinous rice

6 cups hot water

In large bowl, add the rice and pour hot water over it. Allow to soak for 4 hours.

Drain well, then wash rice in fine-mesh strainer. In pot, add 2-inches of water and rest the strainer with the rice on a pot rim, ensuring that water does not touch the strainer. Bring water to boil over medium heat. Once steam starts to come out of rice, cover with pot lid. Steam for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, start preparing the curry. 

Pour coconut milk into a large bowl and allow it to separate. Scoop out 1/2 cup of the thick portion of cream and reserve. Pour the remaining coconut milk into a pot and place over low heat.

In thick-bottomed pan over medium heat, heat the oil. Stir in the reserved coconut cream. Add the curry paste and stir to combine. Bring to a gentle simmer and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until the curry paste is fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. The oil and coconut milk will separate, but this is normal.

Add bamboo shoot tips and kaffir lime leaves to pan and turn heat to medium. Cook 2 minutes. Add beef and cook 3 minutes, stirring, then add warmed coconut milk. Simmer 3 to 5 minutes, or until meat is just cooked through. If necessary, add a little water to loosen. Add chilis and Thai basil. Simmer 2 more minutes. Turn off heat. Add sugar and fish sauce to taste. Serve with steamed sticky rice.

Cory's Fabulous Pan-Fried Shrimp & Scallop Cakes

Each and every time we get together for dinner, my friend Cory surprises us with wonderful new recipes. Never one to do anything in half measures, Cory spends ages pouring through cookbooks and magazines in search of the most interesting dishes to serve during one of his signature multi-course dinner parties. Arriving for dinner one snowy evening, Cory made these sensational Shrimp and Scallop Cakes served on a bed of greens and drizzled with a vibrant ginger soy sauce. Light and delicious with all the bright flavours of summer, these plump perfectly cooked cakes with tangy ginger soy sauce were simply outstanding and an ideal appetizer to add to any cooks culinary repertoire.

The Shrimp and Scallop mixture is formed into 3-inch size portions

FPan-fried in a non-stick pan until until brown and served on a bed of greens with gingered soy sauce

Cory's Beef Stew with peril onions and mashed potatoes served as an entrée

Shrimp & Scallop Cakes
Makes 8 full-size cakes or 24 bite-size cakes as an hors d'oeuvre
Recipe courtesy of Fine Cooking Magazine

The trick to making great fish cakes is to buy fresh ingredients, handle them gently, season with restraint, and pan-fry until you’ve got a crisp, brown crust and a succulent centre.

2 whole star anise
4 tbsp peanut or canola oil, and more as needed for frying
2 cups stemmed and sliced 1/4-inch-thick shiitake mushrooms 
1/2 lb shrimp, any size, peeled and deveined
3/4 lb fresh dry-packed sea scallops
2 tbsp mirin sweetened rice wine
2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh cilantro, plus 8 cilantro leaves
2 tbsp thinly sliced scallions, both white and green parts (about 2 scallions)

Ginger Soy Sauce:
1 piece fresh ginger, about 1 1/2 × 2-inch, peeled
1/3 cup soy sauce
3 tbsp mirin sweetened rice wine
1 tbsp plus 1 tsp granulated sugar
3/4 tsp sambal oelek, to taste
2 tsp fresh lime juice


For the sauce, grate the ginger on a box grater using the large holes. Put the ginger in your palm and squeeze the ginger juice into a small bowl; discard the grated ginger. In a small saucepan, combine 1-1/2 teaspoons of ginger juice with the soy sauce, mirin, and sugar. Warm the mixture over medium heat, stirring, just until the sugar dissolves. Transfer to a small bowl, and stir in the sambal and lime juice. Serve or store covered and refrigerated for up to three days. This recipe makes 2/3 cup.

Grind the star anise in a clean electric coffee grinder. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shiitakes and sauté, stirring as needed, until cooked through, golden, and slightly crisp around the edges, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, let cool, and then finely chop. Coarsely chop the shrimp and transfer to a large bowl. Put the scallops in a food processor and purée until smooth. Add the scallops to the bowl of shrimp. Add 1 teaspoon of the star anise, along with the shiitakes, mirin, cilantro, scallions, sesame oil, and 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt. Combine well using a rubber spatula — don’t worry about overmixing. Cover the bowl and chill for 30 minutes or more. Discard any remaining ground star anise or save for another use.

Turn the mixture out onto a baking sheet and portion it into eight equal mounds. With wet hands, shape each mound into a flattened cake about 2-1/2 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick. Press a cilantro leaf, nice side up, onto the top of each cake.

Heat the oven to 200°F. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Using a rubber spatula, transfer four of the cakes to the pan with the cilantro leaf side down. Cook until lightly browned on both sides and cooked through, turning once or twice with a spatula, 5 to 6 minutes total cooking time. Transfer to a plate, cover, and keep warm in the oven. Wipe the skillet clean and then cook the remaining cakes as above, using the remaining tablespoon of oil. Serve hot, with ramekins of the Gingered Soy Sauce for dipping if serving as an appetizer, or drizzle overtop for larger dinner-size portions.