Presided over by three-star Michelin chef Yoshihiro Murata, this exceptional ryotei is arguably one of the most famous restaurants of Japanese cuisine in the world, and an obligatory stop for any Kyoto-bound gourmet. Kikunoi, which has been in Murata’s family for three generations, is the epitome of refined luxury from its bespoke lacquer-ware to its delicate ikebana flower arrangements, but it is chef Murata’s beautifully crafted kaiseki that has brought him much-deserved acclaim. Served by kimono-clad waitresses, every element in the multi course dinner is perfectly matched to the seasons.
Born in Kyoto more than 500 years ago, kaiseki was originally a light meal, named for the warm stones that young monks carried in their robes to soothe their hunger — kai means bosom, and seki, stone. By the 16th-century, the meal became part of the tea ceremony served to travelers stopping over at a ryokan, one of Kyoto's traditional inns. For generations, the Murata ancestors were tea servers who protected a well that sprang up in the shape of a chrysanthemum, or kiku in Japanese. When the restaurant opened using water from the very same well, it was given the name Kikunoi, meaning ‘chrysanthemum well’. Water is the key element in Japanese cuisine, indispensable in dashi – the umami-rich stock that delicately flavours almost every component of a Kaiseki course. Customers today can still enjoy the taste and tradition of cuisine based on this incredibly historic water and see the deep connection in the chrysanthemum motif around the restaurant on the crest and on dishes.
With an impressive atmosphere much like a luxury ryokan, we were greeted by an elderly doorman in charge of removing our footwear, before we were escorted over the soft floor to our beautifully appointed private tatami mat dining room with hori-kotatsu sunken tables that allowed us to extend our legs below the table for more comfortable dining. The view over the spacious gardens from the broad glass windows was stunning with our first floor room overlooking a bright white raked sand garden designed to look like waves with the playful touch of a turtle examining its reflection in the ‘water’.
Graciously served by kimono clad ladies who bow as they enter and exit with service that is hushed and reverential, each of the tiny, jewel-like courses are brought in one at a time, in exquisite porcelain bowls and lacquer dishes that often have been handed down from generation to generation, just as the menu has been. Courses always include an elaborately composed appetizer, a sashimi course, a simmered dish, a grilled dish, a steamed course and a course that comes in a beautiful lidded bowl. Reservations are almost impossible to get, but worth moving heaven and earth to experience the rarified world of Chef Murata's memorable kyo-kaiseki, an exquisite, elaborately choreographed tasting menu, where as much attention is paid to the beauty of each plate as it is to the texture of the silky slice of fish, the aroma of the tiny blossom that adorns it, the flavour of the mountain herb that's just come into season.
Chopsticks with chef Yoshihiro Murata's personally designed gold sake bowl
Ochazuke with Bubu Arare - In Kyoto the dish is affectionately called bubuzuke,
which is tea with small crispy toasted rice balls
Beautifully dressed in a gold and green kimono, our server presents our chilled bottle of
Cuvée Chrysanthème Brut
Kikunoi's signature champagne nestled in a bucket of crushed ice
Walnut Tofu with Delaware grapes, wasabi jelly and shiso flower buds
Chef Yoshihiro Murata is also the author of his famous Kaiseki cookbook
that has an introduction by famed chef Ferran Adria
Each of Chef Murata's Kaiseki dishes are featured in his cookbook including the delicious Walnut Tofu with Delaware grapes, wasabi jelly and shiso flower buds we were just served
A beautiful red and gold bowl with cranes - the bird of happiness
Sekihan: sticky rice known as 'mochi' and red Azuki beans is a festive Japanese dish
served when celebrating special occasions
The second course, an assortment of appetizers was beautifully presented under a bamboo cage on a bed of fresh leaves
Seared Barracuda Sushi, Hamo Roe Terrine, Hamo marinated in miso and grilled, Grilled Candied Chestnut, Salt-Preserved Ayu Milt and Roe, Salmon Trout Roe, Sake glazed Gingko Nuts, Pine Needle-shaped Green Tea Noodles, and Gingko leaf-shaped sweet potato
Salmon Trout Roe in a sudachi, a small round green citrus fruit that is a specialty of Tokushima
Sashimi of Tai (red sea bream) and prawn, with mixed sprouts, vinegared Chrysanthemum petals and wasabi with curled daikon and carrot
Sashimi of Koshibi (young bluefin tuna) with mustard and soy marinated egg yolk sauce
Kikunoi specially brewed sake
A delicate glass bowl-shaped sake cup
Deep Fried Tilefish with toasted rice, matsutake (pine mushroom), tsuruna leaf, and crescent egg custard (to resemble a crescent moon) with yuzu peel
Passion Fruit-Wasabi Sorbet
Abalone, sea urchin roe and wakame seaweed was served baked in a salt dome
The salt dome was removed at the table to present the wakame topped abalone and sea urchin roe
Luscious Abalone Liver Sauce
Salted Sudachi Lime Juice
Muscat Grapes and Prawn dressed with tofu and marscapone, gorgonzola,
pomegranate seeds and black pepper
Hamo, Matsuke Mushroom, Mibuna (Japanese Arugula) and Kabosu Lime
Ponzu with grated daikon, red pepper and green onion
Japanese Sukiyaki served with a nabemono (Japanese hot pot) with Hamo, mushroom,
and Japanese arugula with dipping sauce
Mrs Murata personally serving the rice with chestnuts, chicken and mitsuba
Rice with chestnuts, chicken and mitsuba
Konomono: Pickled eggplant and cucumber
Edamame Soup Bowl
Edamame Soup with foxtail millet gluten and yuzu
Tea served in a beautiful cup
Cocktail of Poached Fig, Kyocho Grapes and Ceylon Tea Granité
Chestnut And Green Tea Jelly
The kaiseki meal finished with a bowl of frothy matcha tea
Michelin-starred chef Yoshihiro Murata and Mrs Murata
(3-Michelin Star Kaiseki Dinner for 2: ¥74,390)
Deep-fried Eggplant Marinated in Savoury Dashi
Makes 6 pieces
Recipe courtesy of chef Yoshihiro Murata
6 eggplants
Marinade:
1 1/2 cups dashi
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup mirin
14 oz grated daikon radish - empty into a strainer to drain
3 tbsp ginger juice
Scallions, finely sliced as needed
Oil for deep frying, as needed
Combine the marinade ingredients in a pot and place over high heat. Bring to a boil and immediately turn off the heat. Pour into a heat-resistant bowl and set aside to cool, then chill in ice water.
Prepare the eggplants by making an incision around the base of the calyxes to remove them. Make deep vertical incisions about 1/4-inch apart. Pour vegetable oil into a frying pan to a height of about 3/4-inch. Heat the oil to 350°F. Fry 3 eggplants, turning them around with chopsticks so that they cook evenly. Squeeze the eggplants with your chopsticks to test them. If you hear a slight crackling sound, that means they're done. Turn off the heat and drain the eggplants on paper towels. Fry the remaining eggplants in the same way.
Place the hot eggplants in the marinade and add the grated daikon and ginger juice. Set aside to cool and then refrigerate for 2-3 hours to allow the eggplants to fully absorb the flavour. Plate up together with the grated daikon and sprinkle with chopped scallions.
