Founded by Greeks around 734 B.C., the southeastern Sicilian city that Cicero called “the greatest and most beautiful of all Grecian cities” achieved a size and status in the ancient world that made it a rival of major powers like Athens and Carthage, making it one of the great ancient capitals of Western civilization. Takeovers and makeovers by Romans, Byzantines, North Africans, Normans and others left their marks as well, influencing everything from religious art to the region’s distinctive savoury-sweet-sour cooking style. Much of the ancient city has crumbled since Cicero’s day, although the ruins can still be explored in Syracuse’s famous Parco Archeologico della Neapolis, one of Sicily's greatest UNESCO World Heritage sites. Steeped in history and majestic grandeur, the Archaeological Park is home to a staggering number of well-preserved Greek and Roman remains, and is divided into three sections: the Latomie, the Greek theatre and the celebrated Roman amphitheatre.
The Latomia del Paradiso or Paradise Quarry, is one of the most famous ancient caves of the period, a narrow cavern 76-feet high, 214-feet deep, and only about 25-feet wide. Caravaggio called it the Ear of Dionysius because of its anatomical shape, and legend tells that it was used by Dionysius the Tyrant as a prison for his bitterest enemies. The excellent Cathedral-like acoustics meant that he could hear their conversations from outside. However, the main attraction for many is the Greek Theatre that dates back to the 5th-Century BC, and was considered the largest theatre of the ancient world where many famous plays were performed, such as the works of Aeschylus and Epicharmos, considered the father of comedy. The Roman Amphitheatre, built between the 3rd and 4th-century BC, was considered the third largest in Italy after the Colosseum in Rome, with gladiators and wild animals providing spectacles of blood-curdling violence.
For many, a visit to Siracusa can be split into two easy parts: one dedicated to the archaeological site, the other to the beautiful island of Ortygia, with a host of wonderful restaurants, including Sicilia in Tavola, one of the most popular on Via Cavour. Founded in 1998, this snug, wonderfully hospitable family-run trattoria has built its reputation on Chef Laksiri Nugegodag's flavour-forward Sicilian cuisine with outstanding local fish and seafood, and a marvelous menu showcasing his delicious homemade pasta and traditional Sicilian desserts. The small restaurant is jam-packed every day, and no wonder — it's simply terrific.
The Roman Amphitheatre was considered the third largest in Italy after the Colosseum in Rome, with gladiators and wild animals providing spectacles of blood-curdling violence.
The Altar of Hieron was built in the Hellenistic period by King Hiero II and is the largest altar known from antiquity
The Greek Theatre dates back to the 5th-century BC, and was the largest theatre of the ancient world where many famous plays were performed, such as works of Aeschylus and Epicharmos
The Latomia del Paradiso or Paradise Quarry, is one of the most famous ancient caves of the period
Caravaggio called it the Ear of Dionysius because of its anatomical shape
Dionysius the Tyrant used the cavern as a prison for his bitterest enemies, and with excellent Cathedral-like acoustics it meant that he could hear their conversations from outside
One man started to sing opera while we in the cavern which echoed brilliantly through the space
After visiting the Archaeological Park, we drove back to Ortygia for lunch
The small attractive lanes of ancient Ortygia
Ristorante Sicilia in Tavola in Ortygia
This small but enormously popular family-run trattoria in Ortygia is packed all day
Chef Laksiri Nugegodag's menu showcases his delicious homemade pasta, traditional Sicilian desserts and outstanding local fish and seafood
The table-setting featured handmade local ceramic plates
Our server and daughter of Chef Laksiri Nugegodag, was charming, chatty and full of information about her father's menu
2015 Vivera Salisire Contrada Martinella Etna Bianco was just one of Ristorante Sicilia in Tavola's many great wines
Intense, elegant and slightly smoky, this smooth Etna Bianco is perfect with any dish
This delicious wine is made with organic Carricante grapes from the northeastern side of Mt. Etna
Lovely fresh bread made by a local baker
Insalata Tipica di Arance con Filetti di Acciughe del Cantabrico selezione "Nardin"
Tartara di Pesce del Giorno: Tuna Tartare
Fettuccine allo Scoglio
Filetti di Pesce Spatola alla "Ghiotta" con caponata
Tiramisu fatto a mano al momento con crema di Pistacchio di Bronte e ricotta
Classic Tiramisu
Serves 6
1/2 cup espresso, at room temperature
2 tbsp dark rum
1 tbsp cognac
2 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
pinch of salt
7 tbsp sugar, divided
1 cup mascarpone
12 3 1/2-inch ladyfingers
4 tbsp of cocoa powder, for dusting
3 tbsp chopped pistachios
Mix together the espresso, rum, and cognac. The mixture should taste strongly of alcohol. If not, add more until it does. The flavour will tone down when mixed with the other ingredients. In the bowl of an electric mixer, or by hand, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they begin to get stiff. Beat in half of the sugar until stiff. Scrape the egg whites into a small bowl. In the same bowl, beat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar until stiff and light-coloured, about three minutes. If using a standing electric mixer, you may need to stop and scrape down the sides. By hand, beat in the mascarpone with a spatula or whisk, until lump-free. Fold in half of the beaten egg whites, then the remaining half, just until fully incorporated.
Put a heaping soup spoon of the mascarpone cream into each glass. Submerge each ladyfinger in the espresso mixture for 5-10 seconds, until completely soaked. Dried ladyfingers will take longer to saturate than softer ones. Break the ladyfinger in half to be sure - they should be dropping wet, and can’t be saturated enough. Then layer them over the mascarpone cream in each glass. Use two ladyfingers per serving. Grate a generous amount of cocoa powder over each, then top with remaining mascarpone cream, cover, and refrigerate at least four hours, but preferably overnight. The Tiramisu improves over time and is very good served the next day. Right before serving, shake powdered cocoa generously on top of each glass and finish with chopped pistachios.
