Cooking with Jean - A Lifetime of Love & Laughter

Jean White

June 16, 1919 - July 7, 2011

Jean White, a dear friend, devoted Mother and adoring Grandmother, passed away on July 7, 2011 at the enviable age of 92. Over the ten years that I had the good fortune to know her, we would chat about life, family, friends, adventures and of course, recipes. Jean grew up in an era when families generally did all their own baking and made their own pickles and preserves. Jean excelled in each of these areas and her baking in particular, won her many devoted fans. Her homemade hors' d'oeuvres, fruit pies and lemon squares were always eagerly anticipated, quickly devoured and requested over, and over again. My friend Chris and I were delighted when Jean agreed, after much persuasion, to write a cookbook featuring many of her treasured recipes. 

The deal was: I would design Jean's cookbook and Chris would type up all of Jean's copious handwritten recipes and e-mail them to me. After a year of the three of us working together on this noble enterprise, Jean's cookbook was finally printed and delivered. Unfortunately, Jean passed away before she could see it, but her cookbook — Cooking with Jean White — lives on, for her friends, her family and the next generation. 


Jean had a recipe that was posted on her fridge for years. It was reproduced and framed for her memorial. It was a recipe, that in my heart, represents what Jean was all about...

- A Recipe for the Garden of your Daily Living -

Plant three rows of peas:

1. Peace of mind 

2. Peace of heart 

3. Peace of soul 

Plant three rows of squash:

1. Squash gossip 

2. Squash indifference 

3. Squash grumbling 

4. Squash selfishness

Plant four rows of lettuce:

1. Lettuce be faithful 

2. Lettuce be kind 

3. Lettuce be patient 

4. Lettuce really love one another 

No garden is without turnips:

1. Turnip for meetings 

2. Turnip for service 

3. Turnip to help one another 

To conclude, in our garden we must have thyme: 

1. Thyme for each other 

2. Thyme for family 

3. Thyme for friends 

Water freely with patience and cultivate with love. 

Of all of Jean's appetizers that she made over the years, there is one that was my favourite — her famous Sausage Rolls. I know it's often easier to just buy prepared hors' d'oeuvres these days, but Jean's recipe is simply the best. Just like her. 


Jean's Famous Sausage Rolls

Makes about 48

1 sheet puff pastry

16 breakfast link sausages

Preheat oven to 350°F. Boil sausages in a medium saucepan of boiling water and cook about 20 minutes. Remove the sausages from the water and let cool; cut them into thirds, and set aside. Unfold the puff pastry onto a lightly floured surface and roll into about a 12”x12” square, then cut into 4"x4" squares. Cut the pastry squares into triangles and roll each sausage, tucking in the ends, like a small package. Place them seam side down, on a parchment lined cookie sheet. Using a small sharp knife, make a couple of slits on the top of each sausage roll. Bake 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown. These sausage rolls freeze very well. Simply reheat and serve with Dijon mustard.

Roasted Beet Risotto with Goat Cheese & Thyme

Bright in color and bursting with fresh spring flavours, beets give this creamy risotto it's stunning colour, delicate sweetness and earthy flavour. The goat cheese enhances the creaminess of the risotto and the pepper packs a punch to cut through the richness.



Risotta Rosa
Serves 4

5 cups Chicken or Beef Broth
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp oil
1/3 cup finely minced onion
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
2 whole beets, roasted, peeled and puréed (about 1 cup)
2 ounces crème fraîche
2 tablespoons chopped dill
1/2 cup grated parmesan
Crumbled goat cheese and thyme, for garnish

Bring the broth to a steady simmer in a saucepan on the stove. Heat the butter and oil in a heavy skillet over moderate heat. Add the onion and sauté for 1-2 minutes, until it begins to soften. Using a wooden spoon, add the rice to the sautéed onion and str for 1-2 minutes until all the grains are well coated. Add the wine and stir until it's completely absorbed. Then add the puréed beets and stir for 1-2 minutes until they're well combined with the rice. Begin to add the simmering broth, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring frequently. Wait until each addition is almost completely absorbed before adding the next 1/2 cup, reserving about 1/4 cup at the end. Stir frequently to prevent sticking. After about 18-20 minutes, when the rice is tender but still firm, turn off the heat and immediately add the broth, crème fraîche, parmesan and dill, and stir vigorously to combine with the rice. Serve immediately and garnish with crumbled goat cheese, fresh ground black pepper and a sprig of thyme.

Butternut Squash Soup with Coconut Milk

You know Autumn is around the corner when winter squash start showing up at area markets — the perfect time for making delicious fall soups. Butternut squash is one of the most popular forms of winter squash, with a sweet, nutty taste similar to that of a pumpkin. I was shocked to learn that butternut squash, like all gourds, are actually fruit, because they contains seeds. Who knew? Low in fat, Butternut squash also delivers an healthy dose of dietary fiber, making it an exceptional heart-friendly culinary choice.

Butternut squash are also amazingly versatile — roasted with butter, mashed into soups, baked into casseroles and breads, or my favourite, puréed into soups. This Asian-inspired recipe for Butternut Squash Soup with Coconut Milk makes a luscious, slightly sweet, creamy soup, and using coconut milk and fresh squeezed orange juice, rather than heavy cream, gives it a lovely silky texture and lots of extra flavour. The lively background notes come from a touch of Thai red curry paste and a soupçon of fresh ginger, which give an exotic depth to this easy, delicious and healthy puréed soup. 



Butternut Squash Soup with Coconut Milk
Serves 8-10

1 large butternut squash, about 2 pounds
1 tbsp oil
1⁄4 cup onion, minced
1 tbsp freshly grated ginger
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1-2 tsp Thai Red Curry paste
6 kaffir lime leaves, whole
4 cups chicken broth
1 13 oz. can unsweetened coconut milk
1 orange, juice and zest

Peel, core and chop butternut squash into 1-inch cubes and steam until very tender. In an heavy bottomed pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, ginger and garlic and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the curry paste and cook for a few more minutes. Stir in the chicken broth, coconut milk, squash and whole lime leaves. Simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the orange juice and zest. Remove the lime leaves and purée the soup with a hand mixer or in a blender. Serve hot or chilled. Garnish with a dollop of coconut cream or sour cream, and a sprig of Thai basil.

Salmon Mousse with Dill

This smooth and creamy Salmon Mousse looks especially festive when it's unmolded and garnished with sliced lemon, dill and an olive slice for the eye! Okay, maybe it's a little retro, but fish molds seem to have made a real comeback. And because it's made without whipping cream or mayonnaise, it's low in fat and calories, and the flavour is unbeatable.

Simply mix together some chopped dill, minced onion, lemon juice, yoghurt and sour cream with some dissolved gelatin, and chill until almost set; then combine it with two cans of sockeye salmon and pour into any type of mold you prefer. For a cocktail party, a traditional fish-shaped mold or small terrine works very well, but also small single serving ramekins make an elegant choice for personal Salmon Mousse appetizers, which can be served to guests nestled on a small bed of mixed greens, or served with little toast points. Light and delicious, this is a refreshing low-fat starter that requires little effort, and makes a tasty appetizer for a dinner party or impromptu Sunday brunch with friends.


Salmon Mousse with Dill
Serves 10-12

1 envelope unflavoured gelatin
1/2 cup water or clam juice
2 tbsp fresh dill, minced
2 tbsp yellow onion, grated
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp salt
dash of Tabasco sauce
3/4 cup plain 2% yoghurt
1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup celery, finely chopped
2 8 oz/220g cans sockeye salmon

In a small saucepan, sprinkle gelatin over cold water or clam juice; let stand until softened, about 5 minutes. Warm over medium heat until gelatin is dissolved. Let cool to room temperature. Stir in dill, onion, lemon juice, salt, Tabasco sauce, sour cream, yogurt and celery. Refrigerate until mixture begins to set. Remove the skin from the salmon, but not the bones. They’re an excellent source of calcium. Mash the salmon with a fork or process in a food processor. Mix into gelatin mixture. Spoon into a 4-cup fish mold, or similar. Cover and refrigerate until firm, about 3 hours. To serve, unmold onto a serving platter and surround with crackers or fresh cut vegetables.

Classic Buttery Pommes Anna

Pommes Anna is a grand name for what is essentially a dish of sliced potatoes baked in a very large amount of melted butter. Four ingredients are all that is required — potatoes, butter, salt and pepper. This very simple classic French recipe is all in the preparation and presentation, and the use of very, very thinly sliced potatoes. And since the dish is inverted, it's important that the first layer of potatoes be attractively arranged.

A simple, elegant, decadent and outrageously delicious side dish, Pommes Anna was created in 19th-century Paris when Adolphe Dugléré, chef of the Café Anglais, created it for his favorite customer, the celebrated courtesan Anna Deslions. The legendary allure of Pommes Anna is a buttery, soft potato cake on the inside, and a crisp, golden buttery crust on the exterior. I find that two simple tricks help to achieve the perfect Pommes Anna — a nonstick ovenproof skillet ensures easy release every time, and a mandoline saves an awful lot of time. This classic French dish is sinfully delicious, quite addictive, and never fails to impress as the buttery golden potato cake literally melts in your mouth. Mon Dieu!

Pommes Anna
Serves 8

6 medium russet potatoes, peeled - about 2 3/4 lb
6 tbsp butter, melted (I use ghee, which is a clarified butter)
Coarse salt and ground pepper
fresh thyme (optional)

Preheat oven to 450°F. Using a sharp knife or mandoline, slice potatoes as thinly as possible. Don't place the sliced potatoes in water, as the starch is needed to bind the layers. 

Brush the bottom of an 8-inch cast-iron, or non-stick oven-proof skillet, with 1 1/2 tablespoons of melted butter. Starting in the centre of the pan, arrange the potato slices in a circular pattern, overlapping the edges and leaving no spaces. Evenly brush with another 1 1/2 tablespoons of melted butter and season well with salt, pepper and fresh thyme if you wish. Repeat the layering process until all the potato slices have been used, then drizzle the remaining butter overtop. Be sure to press down firmly after each layer to pack the layers together.

Place the skillet over medium-high heat until the edges of the potatoes begin to brown, about 3-4 minutes. Transfer to the oven, cover and bake for 25 minutes, then uncover and bake an additional 35-45 minutes, or until the potatoes are fork-tender, and the top is crispy and golden brown. Remove from the oven, pour off any excess butter, and let stand for 5 minutes. Using a small spatula, separate the potato edges from sides of pan. Then shake the pan and slide a spatula along the bottom to loosen the potatoes. Carefully invert the Pommes Anna onto a warm flat serving platter, garnish with fresh thyme or chopped parsley, and using a sharp knife, serve sliced into wedges. Magnifique!

Betty's Lancashire Hotpot

I don't watch much television, but the one show I never miss, is Coronation Street. It's like being wrapped up in a nice warm blanket. The characters have their fair share of drama, but they're all down to earth and feel like old friends. My husband generally walks out of the room when the theme song starts, so watching the show is my private time. Much of the action on Coronation Street centres around the local pub — The Rover's Return — and like many English pubs, there must be some tasty offerings on the menu to keep punters around during the dining hours.

Coronation Street's Betty Turpin, played by 91-year old Betty Williams

One of Corrie's signature dishes, is Betty's Hotpot. Imagine my surprise, when I discovered that there is a campaign afoot to secure Protected Geographical Indication status for the Lancashire hotpot, meaning that Betty and the regulars of the Rovers won't be eating hotpots made anywhere else in the world. Protected status has already been bestowed on foods such as Melton Mowbray Pork Pies and Stilton cheese, which means that once identified with a specific region, a food cannot be made elsewhere and be given the same name. Champagne, for instance, can only be called champagne if it originates from the champagne region of France. So, if the current campaign convinces the EU to protect the hotpot it would mean that Betty can be genuinely considered an artisanal crafts-person and her hotpot recipe would enjoy a level of protection known only to some of the finest foodstuffs on earth. Quite right too!

Betty's Lancashire Hotpot

Lancashire Hotpot is a classic one-pot dish made traditionally from just three ingredients — lamb or mutton and onion, topped with sliced potatoes, left to bake in the oven all day in a heavy pot and on a low heat. The 'hot pot' referred to is a tall brown earthenware pot with straight sides, that, using the embers of the last night’s fire, would get the best out of cheap cuts of meat. Originating in the days of heavy industrialisation in Lancashire, in the North West of England, Lancashire Hotpot requires a minimum of effort to prepare and is relatively inexpensive — this recipe cost me $16! There are a few recipes around the internet for Lancashire Hotpot, but this recipe was featured in a Special British Corrie Sunday Supplement in the 90s, featuring Coronation Street characters and their recipes — so here is Betty's Official Hotpot recipe! 

Betty's Hotpot

Serves 4

1 lb 'scrag end' or best end neck of lamb, cubed

1 1/2 lb potatoes, peeled and fairly thickly sliced

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 1/2 cups water (or beef stock — my addition)

3 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tbsp of flour

1 bay leaf

1 tbsp Worcestershire Sauce 

salt and pepper to taste

Brown the lamb in a heavy saucepan with 2 tablespoons of very hot oil over medium-high heat, then remove from the pan and set aside. In the same pan, add the sliced onions and fry until they begin to brown. Sprinkle flour into the pan with the onions and stir to soak up the fat. Turn off the heat and add the water (or beef stock) slowly while stirring vigorously to prevent lumps forming. Add a dash of Worcestershire Sauce; salt and pepper to taste. Then mix the onion, meat and stock together and stir in a bay leaf. To compose the hotpot, alternate layers of the meat and onion mixture with thinly sliced potatoes in an ovenproof dish. The top layer should be potato. Cover and bake at 325°F for 2-3 hours. Remove cover and continue to bake until the top layer of potato browns. Serve hot with traditional condiments as chutney, pickled red cabbage or pickled onions.

Note: Although not part of Betty's original recipe, I used beef stock instead of water, and added some chopped thyme to the meat and onion mixture. I also dredged the lamb in flour before browning it.

Spinach and Ricotta Manicotti

My Aunt Mary Lou used to make her famous homemade Manicotti when I was quite young. Always eagerly anticipated and quickly devoured, her baked Manicotti was always a special treat when we gathered for large family dinners. I can't remember the last time she made this revered family favourite, so inspired by childhood memories, I decided to make my own version using a rich cheesy spinach filling, topped with Mamma Styles tomato sauce, and a generous handful of shaved pecorino and mozzarella cheese.

Manicotti, which means sleeve in Italian, is one of the oldest shapes of Italian pasta. Known for their hearty consistency, the pasta's unique tubular shape makes them perfect for sumptuous fillings and robust, highly flavorful sauces. This easy and delicious recipe for Spinach and Ricotta Manicotti, baked for just half an hour to golden perfection, is wonderfully heartwarming and flavourful. Served with a crisp green salad and fragrant garlic bread, my Manicotti was tantalizingly close to my Aunt Mary Lou's classic original. Maybe, if we're lucky, she'll feel nostalgic and make it again! 

Spinach and Ricotta Manicotti

Serves 4

8 manicotti shells
15-oz. container light ricotta cheese
8-oz. frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained of excess moisture
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/8 tsp fresh grated nutmeg
1 large egg, beaten
2 cups Marinara sauce (homemade or store-bought)
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup grated mozzarella


Preheat oven to 375°F. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook pasta shells according to package instructions. Drain well and arrange in a single layer on an oiled baking sheet. 

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine ricotta, 1/2 cup Parmesan, the beaten egg and spinach. Season filling with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Transfer filling to a large zip-top plastic bag, or piping bag with a circular nozzle. Twist and squeeze the bag so that the filling is in one corner. If using the plastic bag technique, snip a 3/4-inch opening in the corner of the plastic bag. Pipe filling into both ends of each pasta shell. In a shallow oven-proof baking dish, spoon a thin layer of marinara sauce to just cover the base. Arrange the stuffed shells over the sauce, side by side. Cover the shells with another layer of Marinara sauce, just covering them. Top the assembled manicotti with the remaining Parmesan and all of the Mozzarella.

Bake until the sauce is bubbling and the cheese is golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let sit 5 minutes before serving and garnish with a basil or whole chives. Serve with some homemade garlic bread and a crisp green salad.