Friday, May 31, 2024

Scalloped Potatoes: The Ultimate Comfort Food

 



One of the ultimate comfort foods, Scalloped Potatoes must be one of our favourite side dishes. Rich, creamy and full of flavour, there are many versions of this classic gratin. Although we often add sliced onions, grated cheese, nutmeg or fresh thyme, our core recipe starts with sliced russet potatoes layered in a garlic rubbed baking dish, smothered in a combination of whole milk and cream then dotted with a butter. If I use onions and cheese, I add them with each layer of potato then cover with the cream mixture and top with a final flurry of grated cheese and sprigs of fresh thyme. Baked in the oven for about 1 1/2 hours until the potatoes are bubbling and golden brown, the mouthwatering aroma and buttery soft texture makes Scalloped Potatoes absolutely impossible to resist. 



Scalloped Potatoes
Serves 6

3 tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/2 lb russet or yellow potatoes, peeled and sliced very thin
1 yellow onion, peeled and finely sliced
1/2 cup grated cheddar or parmesan
1 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
1 garlic clove, halved
1 tsp Maldon sea salt
1/4 tsp ground white and black pepper
Fresh thyme for garnish


Preheat oven to 325°F with a rack set in the lower third of oven. Rinse the sliced potatoes in cold water and pat dry in a towel. Rub a shallow earthenware dish with the garlic clove and butter well. Arrange the sliced potatoes and onions in layers in the baking dish, starting with a layer of onions on the bottom, and season with salt and pepper. Dot with the remaining butter, pour the cream overtop and finish with grated cheddar, and an extra flurry of salt and pepper over the assembled gratin, and finished with crumbled fresh thyme. Transfer the baking dish to oven and bake for 1 1/2 hours — I often place a sheet of aluminum foil on the rack below to catch any drips. During the last 10 minutes, turn the heat up to 400°F to brown the top of the potatoes so that they become golden brown. Remove from oven and let the dish stand for 5 minutes, before serving the scalloped potatoes directly from the baking dish.





Wednesday, May 29, 2024

Dill & Tarragon Potato Salad: Ina Garten Classic





A welcome addition to any barbecue or picnic, Potato Salad is a classic summer time favourite and considered by many to be one of the ultimate comfort foods. However Ina Garten's sensational Tarragon Potato Salad takes this humble side dish to another level. Fresh dill, tarragon, scallions, red onion, white wine vinegar, fresh squeezed lemon juice and homemade mayonnaise seasoned with fresh ground white pepper provide the creamy catalyst for cool firm Yukon Gold potatoes. Developed in Canada, Yukon Golds are a cross between a North American white potato and a wild South American yellow-fleshed one. A perfect compromise between dry, fluffy russet potatoes and moist, waxy varieties, Yukon Golds are incredibly versatile and perfect in Potato Salad, especially this luscious version by the one and only Ina Garten.



Diil and Tarragon Potato Salad
Serves 12
Recipe courtesy of Ina Garten

4 lb medium Yukon Gold potatoes
Maldon salt
2 cups good store-bought or homemade mayonnaise
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup tarragon white wine vinegar
2 tsp freshly ground white pepper
6 tbsp chopped scallions, white and green parts
6 tbsp minced red onion
1/4 cup minced tarragon
1/4 cup minced fresh dill


Place the potatoes in a pot with enough water to cover them. Add 1 tablespoon of salt, bring to a boil and simmer for 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the potatoes, just until tender when pierced with a small knife or skewer. Drain in a colander. Put a kitchen towel over the colander and allow the potatoes to steam for 10 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel the potatoes or leave the skins on if you prefer. Slice into 1/2-inch thick coins and place in a mixing bowl.

Meanwhile, combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice, white wine vinegar and two teaspoons of Maldon salt and white pepper. While the potatoes are still warm, pour the dressing over the potatoes and toss well. Add the scallions, red onion, tarragon and dill, and toss gently. Allow the salad to sit for at least 30 minutes for the flavours to develop. Garnish with a little extra dill before serving at room temperature.






Monday, May 27, 2024

Truffled Oxtail Ragù Tortelloni & Tomato Rosé Sauce





Located in the heart of St. Petersburg, Mazzaro's is more than a one-of-a-kind Italian gourmet market, it’s one of Tampa Bay’s favourite culinary destinations. Known for its handmade pastas, pre-made dishes, cheeses, olives, popular deli sandwiches, and decadent bakery items, Mazzaro's is food lovers paradise. Having heard about Mazzaro's from foodie friends, we now make a point of visiting whenever were in Tampa, and stocking up on their homemade sauces and pastas which are made daily by Teresa, who was creating gorgeous Truffled Oxtail Ragù Tortelloni the day we visited. We couldn't resist, and came home with a dozen of the little lovelies for dinner that night. 



Mazzaro's hand makes all their pasta every day, including these gorgeous plump tortelloni

Teresa hand making these Truffled Oxtail Ragù Tortelloni



Truffled Oxtail Ragù Tortelloni
Serves 4

Filling:
2 tbsp olive oil
2 lb oxtails 
2 carrots, roughly chopped 
2 stalks celery, roughly chopped 
1 white onion, roughly chopped 
2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 
6 juniper berries, roughly chopped 
4 sage leaves, roughly chopped 
1 sprig rosemary, leaves removed and roughly chopped 
1 pint homemade beef stock 
1 pint red wine 
Salt and pepper to taste
2 large eggs 
1 handful of freshly grated Parmesan 
10 oz grated stale Italian bread 
2 tbsp Giuliano Tartufi Crema Tartufata

Pasta:
1 lb all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
4 jumbo eggs 
1 tbsp olive oil 
1 tsp salt 

Tomato Rosé Sauce:
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp butter
1/2 small onion, chopped finely
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup tomato paste
1 cup whipping cream
Salt and pepper to taste


For the oxtail ragù filling, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over high heat. Brown the oxtails on each side until brown and crispy, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. In another pan with a lid, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil and sauté the chopped carrots, celery, onion, garlic, juniper berries, sage and rosemary until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the oxtails along with the beef stock, red wine and salt and pepper to taste. Cover with foil and a lid and cook over high heat for 3 hours.

Remove the pan from the heat, add the Crema Tartufata and cool. Remove the oxtails from the pan; discard the bones and shred the meat by hand. Reserve the juices from the pan and set aside. Let fully cool. Mix the shredded oxtail with the eggs, Parmesan and grated bread until fully incorporated.

To make the Rosé Sauce, add the oil and butter to a skillet over medium heat. Once melted, add the onion sauté for 5-7 minutes or until softened and lightly browned.
Stir in the garlic, then add the wine and let it bubble for about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomato paste and cream until smooth. Let the sauce bubble for about 5 minutes or until thickened up a bit, then set aside until required.

For the pasta, combine the flour, eggs and olive oil in a bowl and mix by hand until smooth. Run the dough through a pasta machine until you reach the desired consistency on the thinnest setting. Lay the pasta sheets on a floured work table and cut the pasta with a round pasta cutter. Spoon the oxtail filling in the middle of the pasta circles. Pull up the sides of the pasta and close by hand.

To make the tortellini, lay the pasta sheets on a floured work table and cut into 3" squares using a round cutter or thin knife, spacing them as close together as possible. Put one heaping teaspoon of filling on each square, brush water all around the edges. Fold the square in half to form a rectangle and press down to remove any air and seal the edges where they come together. Bend the rectangle so that the outer corners come together, forming a classic tortelloni shape, a pinch them to seal and set aside on your work surface. Toss with flour, set aside on well-floured baking sheet, and cover. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough, re-rolling the scraps.

Bring a pot of water to a boil with 1 teaspoon salt. Add the tortelloni and cook for about 3-4 minutes, until they float to the top. Drain and plate the tortelloni and top with some rosé sauce and garnish with freshly grated parmesan cheese.











Friday, May 24, 2024

Langdon Hall: Summer Lunch in Wilks' Conservatory

 



Originally built as a Federal Revival mansion by the famous New York Astor family at the turn of the 20th-century, the property still exudes the air of an old Ontario estate, but few people are aware of the international connections in Langdon Hall’s hundred-year history. Built by the son of an English man who inherited American wealth, the grand home was intended as a summertime contrast to life in New York, London and a château in the Loire valley. From the outset, when the mansion was finally sold in 1982 with about thirty surrounding acres, the transformation of Langdon Hall from a private residence into a luxury country house hotel embraced the British tradition. To compliment the English ambience that is alive inside Langdon Hall, much has been done to renovate the grounds and gardens to their original Victorian magnificence, as envisaged by its owners architect William Bennett and Mary Beaton. 

Considered to be one of the top hotels in Canada, I've been escaping to Langdon Hall for over 20 years and have spent many memorable weekends there with both friends and family, blissfully enjoying their spectacular spa, playing croquet on the verdant lawns, relaxing in the gorgeous outdoor pool, exploring the impressive chef's kitchen garden, and of course indulging in Langdon Hall's exceptional cuisine by the superbly talented Jason Bangerter — one of my favourite chefs in Canada — who also has a new cookbook featuring recipes he created for Langdon Hall. In addition to Langdon Hall's main dining room, one can also dine at Wilks' Bar, which was recently integrated with the adjacent conservatory, where afternoon tea was previously served. Offering lighter lunches and dinners in the new space, designed by Sarah Richardson, Wilks' Bar still fortunately retains the unique wood burning fireplace and period photos of Langdon Hall’s original founding family. Still elegant and refined, taking time for lunch at Wilks' is one of life's more delicious pleasures, especially when dining with special friends. 


Langdon Hall's redesigned Conservatory

Wilks' Bar menu

A lovely chilled 2021 
La Cave d'Augustin Florent Côtes de Provence Rosé

An absolutely delicious Rosé

Heritage Deviled Eggs garnished with Langdon Hall edible flowers and herbs 

Heritage Deviled Eggs custom garnished with other Langdon Hall edible flowers and herbs 

Beer Battered Cod with lemon herb aioli, chubby chips and malt vinegar powder

Lobster Roll with toasted bun, artisan lettuce and salt and vinegar chips

Shrimp Pasta with vegetable succotash, tarragon cream and chicken bone jus
with fresh herb and flower garnish

Chef Jason Bangerter's new Langdon Hall cookbook

Chef Bangerter with his new cookbook

Langdon Hall focuses on seasonal, locally grown ingredients,
come from from the Kitchen Herb Garden, with many seasonal plantings currently underway







Well-Dressed Peewee Hen Eggs With Caviar, Greenhouse Flowers & Herbs
Makes 6
Recipe courtesy of Chef Jason Bangerter

Aioli (makes extra):
2 large egg yolks
1 garlic clove, finely minced or grated with a Microplane
1/2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp white wine vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 cup vegetable oil
1/2 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp kosher salt

Devilled Eggs:
6 peewee or regular eggs, simmered for 10 minutes, cooled and peeled
2 tbsp aioli (recipe above)
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp kosher salt

Garnishes (any or all):
Shiso leaves
Basil leaves
Chervil leaves and flowers
Bachelor’s button petals
Nasturtium leaves and flowers
Dill leaves and flowers
Fennel fronds
Marigold leaves and flowers
Canadian sturgeon caviar, for serving


For the Aioli: in a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the garlic, lemon juice, white wine vinegar and mustard to mix well. While whisking, add the vegetable oil in a thin stream, followed by the olive oil, whisking continuously to emulsify. The aioli will thicken to the texture of a silky mayonnaise. If it becomes too thick, thin it with a few drops of room-temperature water. Stir in the salt. Transfer the aioli to a covered container and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

For the Devilled Eggs: with a sharp knife, cut a thin slice from the top and bottom of each egg so they will sit upright once halved. Evenly slice the eggs in half crosswise. Remove the yolks and reserve for the filling. The egg white should have a cup shape. Rinse the egg whites in the water to clean out any remaining yolk and dry them on paper towel.

In a food processor, purée the reserved egg yolks with the aioli and mustard until you have a smooth, creamy texture without lumps. If there are lumps, pass the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve. Season with salt.

To Serve: using a teaspoon or a piping bag fitted with a plain tip, fill each egg white cup with the yolk mixture. Garnish the top with soft herbs and edible flowers, and to finish, place a generous spoonful of Canadian sturgeon caviar on the side.





Wednesday, May 22, 2024

Terroni on Adelaide: Lunch in Outdoor Courtyard





Located in Toronto's former York County Courthouse built in 1852, this heritage building is home to Terroni Adelaide, where many of the original features remain preserved inside, including the original jail cells which now acts as wine cellars, and third floor Covo degli Artisti where the famous Canadian landscape painters 'The Group of Seven' ate and drank in 1909 when The Arts and Letters Club rented out the space to meet and entertain.  Arriving for lunch on  a warm and sunny Victoria Day afternoon, we sat in the lovely outdoor courtyard surrounded by boxes full of flowers, ferns and greenery. Beginning with a cold Peroni beer and glass of Aglianico from Campania, the menu featured the Abruzzo region of Italy with a Pappardelle all'Anatra — a delicious duck ragu with tomatoes, onions and fresh herbs. Chef Giacomo Pasquini's Tagliatelle alla Bolognese and Spaghetti a Mare with fresh clams and mussels, calamari, scallops and tiger shrimp are always wonderful, especially for al fresco dining in the heart of the city. 


 
Terroni Adelaide's outdoor patio

The courtyard is rounded with seasonal plantings making the courtyard verdant and cozy

Peroni Beer

Capolino Perlingieri Brizio Aglianico from Campania

Warm crusty bread

Terroni organic olive oil organic made in Puglia 

Tagliatelle alla Bolognese

Pappardelle all'Anatra, a duck ragu with tomatoes, onions and fresh herbs,
a special prime from Abruzzo










Tagliatelle Bolognese
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy of chef Giacomo Pasquini

2 oz (60 g) finely chopped pancetta
2/3 cup (150 mL) olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
3/4 lb (375 g) ground beef
1/2 lb (250 g) ground pork
1/4 cup (60 mL) red wine
1 1/4 cups (310 mL) canned San Marzano tomatoes and their juices, crushed
1/2 cup (125 mL) beef stock or broth 
Salt and pepper to taste
1 lb (500 g) store-bought fresh or dried tagliatelle pasta
Freshly grated Parmigiana-Reggiano, for garnish


Add pancetta to a large pot over medium heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Add oil if needed. Add onion, carrot and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion softens, about 5 minutes. Crumble in the beef and pork. Cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the red wine, then cook until the wine begins to absorb, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and broth to the pot, and simmer until the flavours infuse and sauce thickens, about 1 hour. Season with salt and pepper. When the sauce is almost ready, cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain well. Serve pasta topped with sauce and garnish with cheese, if you like.












Monday, May 20, 2024

Bar Goa: Indian Cuisine with Hemant Bhagwani

 




New Age Indian cuisine channeling the vibe of Goa, this fabulous restaurant is the third in a succession of concepts by chef Hemant Bhagwani, inspired by his time in Goa — India’s vacation destination on the Arabian Sea. After selling his enormously popular Indian Street Food Co. and the Amaya Express chain in 2017, Bhagwani spent six months recharging in Goa and working on a yet-to-be-released and eagerly awaited cookbook. Captivated by the sun-soaked state’s distinctive, culturally diverse cuisine, the chef returned to Toronto to open Bayview Village’s Goa Indian Farm Kitchen in 2019, followed by Goa New York in the Tribeca neighbourhood, and now thankfully Bar Goa, conveniently located on the corner of Toronto and Adelaide Street — a short walk from where we live.

Goan cuisine has long been known for its blend of Indian and colonial Portuguese influences, and the area continues to be a crossroads of culinary cultures. Offering two set Omakase menus — one vegetarian and one not — Bar Goa also has many à la carte options including chef Harjot Singh's outstanding Makhan Chicken Tikka, delicious Goan Tiger Prawn Curry and superb Grass Fed Ghee Dal Makhani. A certified sommelier himself, Bhagwani has developed a well-focused wine list which features light and bright whites, spicy reds and cool cocktails such as a Paan Old Fashioned garnished with a betel leaf and Cardamom Martini with cardamom, vodka, dry vermouth and green tea. With an irresistibly hip vibe and the finest Indian food in town, Bar Goa is quite simply the best.



The gold and marble bar at Bar Goa

Sleek and modern, the interior of Bar Goa is also warm and inviting

Black-and-white geometric flooring inspired by the traditional azulejos tiles from
Portugal's colonial influence on Goan architecture

Paan Old Fashioned, whiskey infused with paan is combined with Nonino Quintessentia, 
saffron bitters and Manuka honey and garnished with a betel leaf

Chaat Martini with fresh mint

Two Puri Chaat are served with the martini

Makhan Chicken Tikka with leeks, amul cheese and pistachios
is my favourite dish at Bar Goa

Short Ribs Vindaloo with a mini Kulcha

Bar Goa's wafer thin Kulcha is served with the Short Ribs Vindaloo appetizer 
to soak up all the lovely sauce

Austrian Grüner Veltliner

Tuscan Sangiovese

Laal Gosht oxtail curry cooked Hydrabadi-style

Goan Prawn Curry with black tiger prawns in silky coconut curry and crispy okra

Absolutely perfect fluffy Garlic Naan

Grass Fed Ghee Dal Makhani

Long grain Himalayan basmati










Makhan Chicken Tikka
Serves 2
Recipe courtesy of chef Hemant Bhagwani

First Marination:
6 oz chicken breasts, boneless with skin removed, and cut into 4 even "cubes"
1 tsp salt
3 tbsp garlic paste
3 tbsp ginger paste
3 tbsp fresh lemon juice

Chicken Marinade:
2 tbsp garlic paste
1 tbsp salt
2 tbsp mustard oil
25g garam masala
200g Greek yogurt
50g cheddar cheese

For Tikka Masala:
10g dried fenugreek lightly roasted
2g black salt
6g chaat masala
3g raw mango powder
3g Kashmiri chilli powder
2g garam masala
8oz melted butter

Makhan sauce:
500g Greek yogurt
5 cardamom pods, crushed
50g fresh root ginger, Finley chopped
1 tsp green chillies, finely chopped
1 tsp cilantro, finely chopped
Salt


To make the marinated chicken, mix all of the ingredients, except the chicken, in a bowl, then rub this into the chicken, ensuring it is evenly coated. Marinate at room temperature for 15 minutes. 

To make the chicken marinade, mix all ingredients in a bowl, and rub it onto the chicken, then coat it again. Leave the marinated chicken in the fridge for up to 6 hours. To make the tikka masala, grind the fenugreek, and then mix with other spices and store in a container. Set the butter on the side.

For the Makhan sauce, bring the yogurt, cream, cardamom, and crushed ginger to a boil in a small pot, then blend for 3 minutes to make it a consistent sauce.

Cook the chicken on the barbecue until just done. Skewer the chicken pieces and plate with a drizzle of Mahkan sauce and serve.